Fabric Manufacturing

Fabric Production Cycle

Ours is a vertical factory. Raw materials enter and finished garments exit. The fabric production process is the one that uses the majority of our most important resources in terms of investment in technology and human resources. This is why, in this section, we would like to explain the production cycle that each fabric goes through, illustrating the various production processes and the various machines that are used within our factory in Ponte di Colle.
Machinery + Technology + Research + Human excellence = Beste

Quality Control

_Greige Inspection (First quality control step)

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During this phase the fabric is 100% inspected by expert professionals to select first-choice quality goods from second-choice goods.

_Inspection after Dyeing (Second quality control step)

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After the dyeing process, the fabric is inspected by highly specialized personnel who check the uniformity and tone of the color as well as the overall look of the fabric before proceeding to the next production process, i.e. finishing.

_Final inspection (Third quality control Step)

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At the end of the production cycle, the fabric is diligently inspected by our highly specialized staff. They mark each defect present on the fabric one by one and fill out a report which is sent to the client. On this inspection report, one can see all of the defects of the fabric in map form.

Preparation

_Singeing

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In the singeing machine, fabric is treated with a gas flame that “singes” the loose fibers on the fabric surface so as to make it clean to the touch and to the eye.

_Washing/Bleaching/Mercerizing

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These are some of the most important processes that are carried out before dyeing and are fundamental to achieving a perfect final handfeel and look of a fabric. In one single machine, the fabric is washed, bleached (i.e. turned white) and mercerized (a very strong alkaline treatment that prepares the fibers for dyeing).

_Drying & Thermofixing

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In this machine, the fabric is dried and thermofixed to make is stable against shrinkage (caused by steam water, dry cleaning).

Dyeing

_Rope Dyeing

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Fabric that is “rope” dyed is dyed with the maximum penetration and depth. This is the most expensive dyeing method however it enriches the quality of the fabric. This is the area where Beste has the most expertise and uses this expertise most often.

_Jigger Dyeing

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This is a type of open width dyeing that uses synthetic fibers or synthetic fibers mixed with celluloid fibers. This dyeing method is called for when the fabric is delicate and cannot stand up to the excessive handling that is used in rope dyeing.

_Pressure Dyeing

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This method is very similar to Jigger Dyeing but is carried out in an autoclave where modified atmospheric pressure is used to dye fibers (polyester, for example) that require these conditions to absorb the dye.

_Continuous Dyeing

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This is the traditional dyeing method that is used in the cotton industry. This is the method least often used by Beste because, while it does have a low cost, the look and handfeel are poorer (low penetration of the dye, reduced brilliancy of the colors, flat look of the fabric).

_Dyestuff Dosage & Chemical Auxiliares

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No person touches or handles dyestuffs, chemical auxiliaries or similar products here at Beste because we have 3 computerized systems in place that manage the entire operation: from doses of 0.1 grams of dyestuff to kilograms of acids or alkali.

Laboratorio

_Technical Laboratory

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This is a laboratory designed to test our fabrics before shipment. This laboratory is not accredited but it useful for checking the quality of the fabric both on a physical and color level; we run quality tests that are then supported by external tests carried out by the Buzzi Institute in Prato (www.buzzilab.it) accompanied by certificates.

_Dyeing Laboratory

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This is a laboratory dedicated to dyeing tests, where colors are created that will later be used in production. These trials are necessary for color approval by a client as well as testing before proceeding into dyeing in an industrial machine. The laboratory is equipped with a highly computerized machine that operates automatically 24 hours a day and is capable of producing 120 trials per day.

Finishing

_Tumbler Dry Cleaning

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Here at Beste, we respect the environment and for this reason we have equipped ourselves with a dry-cleaning machine that uses HYDROCARBONS  which are completely environmentally friendly and do not pollute. This type of dry-cleaning is recognized as the most environmentally friendly of the existing dry-cleaning methods.

_Tumbler Washing & Treatments

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The fabric is washed and treated in enormous “tumblers” to make it special and unique using a technique that is both artisinal and unparalleled. Enzymes, softeners and stones are introduced into the machine along with the fabric to obtain very specific effects.

_Airo Washing

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This is the reproduction of the same processes that are carried out in a tumbler but with more industrial and reproducible characteristics. The handfeel and look are not at the same level as the tumbler treatments but they are similar in nature.

_Energy Treatment

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This is another machine that completes the cycle of washing and treating fabrics. This is a milder wash however the fabric is still washed and “beaten” again moving walls that soften it.

_Raising

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The fabric is treated with the raising machine to bring out the fibers of the fabric and create a fur-like surface. Depending on the fiber, the raising treatment can create very different effects.

_Grinding

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The fabric is ground with sandpaper so as to create a peached look/feel. The final effect is unexpected. The machine is regulated with high pressure however the greatest risk in grinding is breaking the fabric if the pressure is too high.

_Shearing

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This machine is comparable to a beard trimmer. In fact, the fabric passes under a very sharp blade that cuts the loose fibers on the surface of the fabric so as to make the face side of the fabric clean and even.

_Calendering

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This is an industrial ironing process that is carried out with the use of temperature and pressure that can vary from 0 to 300 tons per square centimeter.

_Compacting

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In technical terms this machine is called a Sanforizing Machine. The fabric is moved using a soft cushion and is forced to compact itself when pressed again a steel surface. This is done to prevent the fabric from shrinking or stretching during the ironing or washing of the garment.

_Ironing

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The fabric is ironed using the same method as ironing a garment.

_Bonding

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This is a high precision machine. One fabric is bonded on top of another using only a few grams per meter of glue (around 3 grams per square meter) so as to definitively join the two fabrics together.

_Rolling

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The fabric is rolled using steam and a stabilizing chain with needles that allow the fabric to be moved without tension to create the classic “tube roll” in which the fabric is sold.